Dramatic coastlines, stone circles and toasted sandwiches: Three days in Wild West Cork

 

[dropcaps]B[/dropcaps]eing a native of Ireland but now living in London for the past eight years, my visits home are usually snatched weekends that never venture further than the family home, but more and more I meet people who tell me how lucky I am to be from Ireland, how friendly the people are and how beautiful the coastline is. And while I have many memories that can verify this, I haven’t experienced it myself for quite some time.

 

So instead of believing that a holiday can only constitute a sunnier climate, I took some time out to rediscover my home county of Cork. I also had a new romance to accompany me for the perfect break away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

 

DAY ONE

 

You’ve probably heard by now about Ireland’s dramatic coastline dubbed the ‘Wild Atlantic Way’, and Kinsale is the perfect starting point for exploring West Cork – just 25 mins drive from the airport, I would recommend hiring a car and heading for this picturesque fishing town with a bustling arts scene, and lots of fantastic bars and restaurants.

 

Drive straight through the town (we’ll be coming back later!) and follow the signs for one of the many dramatic viewing points. I’d recommend The Old Head. There you’ll find incredible scenery – jagged cliffs dropping into the roaring Atlantic Ocean, and tall rough grass to wade through.

 

 

Also close by, is a museum commemorating the 1,198 passengers who died when British liner, the ‘Lusitania’ was torpedoed by a German U-boat during the first World War.

 

Once you’ve taken some history in, you might be thirsty so it’s worth stopping off at The Speckled Door for your first pint of Guinness (which definitely tastes much better in Ireland!)

 

Then drive on to nearby Garretstown for a walk along its two beaches, kick off your shoes (weather permitting of course) and explore the pools of flora and fauna.

 

Kinsale is known as a ‘gourmet capital of Ireland’ and boasts incredible restaurants – Fishy Fishy is very popular, but there are also many pubs that serve great food too.

 

We chose to eat at The White House which is a pub in one section, and a more formal eatery in the other. If you’re on a roll with the Guinness you’ll enjoy their delicious Beef & Guinness Irish stew and the local Kinsale IPA goes down easy too.

 

 

Get your first taste of Ireland’s fantastic pub culture by making your way around town, with many venues hosting live music throughout the week. When it’s time to rest your head, stay in one of the town’s popular B&B’s and let your hosts exemplify that famous Irish charm.

 

I’d recommend ‘Landfall House’(Prices from €75 B&B per double room) a short distance from the town where hosts Donnie and Margo will make you feel like family, and entertain you with local knowledge.

 

Their traditional Irish breakfast is unbeatable, and if you’re a meat-eater, Irish sausages and pudding are like nothing you’ve tasted before – truly mouth-watering! This will also be your first opportunity to taste Ireland’s infamous ‘brown bread’, or ‘soda bread’ as it is sometimes called. It looks like a rye bread, but tastes much sweeter – best served slightly warm with melting butter and jam.

 

 

DAY TWO

 

After filling up on your breakfast, set off further West to the village of Rosscarbery, just outside the town of Clonakilty. Along the roughly 50km journey, you’ll notice an abundance of pink and purple fuschia trees lining the roadsides which lets you know you’re in West Cork.

 

Check in to the Celtic Ross Hotel (prices from €99 B&B per double room) and grab one of their helpful guides to ‘Rambles near Rosscarbery’ and prepare to discover more of Cork’s dramatic coastline. The weather in Ireland is often unpredictable but an overcast day can often make the scene of crashing waves and wild coastline all the more memorable. I’d recommend taking in the ocean at Long Strand and checking out the woodland trails of Castlefreke.

 

 

Time for another Guinness(!) Head into Rosscarbery town to the traditional Nolan’s Bar for a spot of lunch amongst the locals. Ireland has a fantastic sandwich culture, and ordering a toastie by the roaring fire is a must.

 

The Celtic Ross was recently awarded Ireland’s Best Three Star Hotel and it’s easy to see why. It’s a fantastic place to unwind for a couple of days, with exceptionally accommodating staff ready to make you feel at home. Our spacious ‘room with a view’ looked out over a mystical lake filled with wildlife – take a walk after breakfast and you’ll spot swans, herons and fulmars. Bathrooms for me are always very important (especially when staying as a couple!) and we were spoilt with ‘his and hers’ sinks and even a jacuzzi bath for pure luxury.

 

 

The menu in the hotel’s Kingfisher Bar is filled with local seasonal delights such as Roaring Water Bay Mussels served in a madras curry, the Monkfish and Chorizo Kebab and keep your thirst quenched with the local Beara Gin.

 

And just to make sure you completely unwind after all those romantic walks, their Serenity Rooms offers massages from Bee, a charming and very talented masseuse who puts you right at ease. (prices around €65 for 60 minutes).

 

DAY THREE

 

An absolute must-see is Mizen Head, Ireland’s most south-westerly point and the perfect viewing point to witness the Wild Atlantic Ocean. The drive from Rosscarbery takes approximately 80 minutes but can incorporate stops in many inviting towns along the way such as Glandore, Ballydehob, Schull and the stunning beaches of Barleycove. Standing on Mizen Head gazing out at endless sea truly feels like the edge of the world, and I’ll be surprised if you don’t fall in love with Ireland on this very spot. (Entry €7.50 per adult). 

 

 

On the way back into Rosscarbery, stop by Drombeg Stone Circle or the ‘Druid’s Altar’ as it is known locally, an ancient burial site dating back to between 153 BC and 127AD and witness a small window into Ireland’s rich history.

 

If the day’s activities haven’t tired you out, once you’re back at base, the nearby town of Clonakilty is a charming spot, again with plenty of live music pubs and fine restaurants. With a strong arts culture in the town, there’s always something going on. The week we were there, we saw a fantastic production of ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’ by Cornwall’s Footsbarn Travelling Theatre.

 

 

Three days exploring my native county in tourist-mode has definitely strengthened my affinity to Cork. I felt proud of the warm welcome of the Irish, the quality and freshness of the food and the breath-taking views. If like me, you need a proper switch off every now and again to recharge – West Cork is the perfect spot to do so.

 

CELTIC ROSS HOTEL
Web: www.celticrosshotel.com | Email: info@celticross.com | Tel: +353 (0)23 88 48722

 

LANDFALL HOUSE
Web: www.landfallhouse.com | Email: info@landfallhouse.com | Tel:+353 21 477 2575