Restaurant Review: The Jam Tree, Chelsea

By Tom Gatehouse
@tragatehouse
tomgatehouse.com

Ian Fleming’s timeless spy/womaniser James Bond lived in an unnamed but fashionable square just off the Kings Road in London. Not that he was ever there, mind you. Not with the number of top hat-throwing, bladed yo-yo-tossing and stainless steel-gnashing bad guys around the world in need of a good talking to over a stiff drink.

The Kings Road is kind of where you’d expect Mr Bond to make base, though, what with the amount of swanky restaurants and bars about, not to mention the ever-blossoming fashion outlets that have been about since the 60’s. Things are a little more laid back nowadays, however, with most suits and pencil skirts out for a casual drink game for a hip gastropub with a grand outside – which is exactly what The Jam Tree is all about, Moneypenny.

Found on the western side of Chelsea, The Jam Tree here is one of two in West London, with the other found nestled in the nearby Clapham. Airy and boasting chock-a-block cocktail and food menus; the guys and gals at The Jam Tree are gearing up for a summer of barbecuing out the back and down the stairs in their garden.

We grabbed a bench, one of around 15 available, and a couple of cocktail menus. Inside one, the first thing you’ll notice is the photo of the ‘Netflix and Chill’ (£9.70). And the first thing you’ll actually do is order one.

Overflowing with popcorn, this cocktail comes in a large popcorn cup and is made up of vanilla vodka, butterscotch liqueur, caramel and lemon. It certainly is quite the sweet treat and it seriously lasts forever, such is the size of it.

I was still happily sipping away when our starter, a mixed sharing board (£18), arrived.

Unable to pick with any real conviction from the bumper starter menu, and with my companion twiddling her penny-farthing earrings in steadily growing anticipation and indecision, we decided that the mixed board was the only choice. Buffalo wings, Scotch egg, mini game pasties, sotong manis, celeriac fritters, dukkah and grilled bread – served on a wooden slab/flattened tree trunk.

The sotong manis, chunky battered squid doused in sticky sweet chilli sauce, was the star of the show. The presence of oil and dukkah, an Egyptian faux-dip of mixed spices and nuts, gave the platter a distinctly middle-eastern vibe, with Asian through the sotong manis and classic British ploughmans board throwbacks.

A toastie from the Breville maker out the back of The Winchester, this is not. Real thought has gone into the menu at The Jam Tree, with further evidence arriving with our waitress after the tree trunk was licked clean.

Grilled King Fish Steak (£18) marinated with sesame, horseradish and yuzu, served with a mango, spring onion, cucumber and lime salad. Welcome to a high-end Chelsea gastropub.

As succulent as a boat ride at night across Macao towards a floating casino and as dainty as a Halle Berry’s bellybutton covered in diamonds; my king fish was a triumph. The mango stood strong, with the uniquely textured fruit very much at home with flakes of fish flesh. Fulfilling but not too filling, this was a throwback to my time in Thailand eating fresh and vibrant fish steaks on the beaches of Koh Samui.

Penny-farthing opposite me was clearly still hungry despite the log of starter goodies, so along came a marinated lamb kebab (£16). Much larger than my steak, this was diced leg of lamb marinated in yoghurt and spices, served in a pita with lettuce, diced tomato, pickled pepper, harissa and thyme fries. Another Jam Tree hit, perfectly suited to outside whiling in the often shy mid-evening sun.

Another dip into the cocktail menu brought a Berry Bourbon Blast (£9). Made with fresh blueberries, with blackcurrant jam, mint and Jim Beam Bourbon; Penny opposite me soon had a unending grin, which only widened with the arrival of her dessert.

Double Chocolate and banana brownie (£6.50) made with both white and dark choc, banana, and served with banana cream. Banana cream! Yes, it does taste as good as it sounds.

Two shots of the Jam Tree’s signature drink finished us off. They have five varieties of the Jam Shot (£4.50 each)- jam-infused shots that tingle and cuddle the inside of your mouth. We had a strawberry and a raspberry. She won with the raspberry.

If Double-O-Seven ever did take a day to unwind and send Little Nelly off to the shop, he could certainly pick a worse spot than The Jam Tree in Chelsea. His fiercely old-school nature may not permit him to enjoy their Porn Star Martini (£9), considering the Passoa Passion Fruit Liqueur shaken in with passion fruit and lime with the shot of champagne on the side – but that’s what the people like nowadays, as its great, and every good spy knows how to mingle.

The Jam Tree, Chelsea
Address: 541 King’s Rd, London SW6 2EB
Website: www.thejamtree.com/chelsea
Twitter: @The_Jam_Tree
Phone: 020 3397 3739