CHESHIRE: Marco Pierre White’s Steakhouse, Chester – Reviewed

 

Arguably the most famous chef our country has produced – and still the youngest chef in the UK to achieve three Michelin stars – Marco Pierre White has serious culinary clout.

 

 

Having teamed up with the Hilton group, Marco’s stylish steak houses have become the bench mark to which others try to emulate. We recently attended a bash to celebrate his Manchester steakhouse restaurant on Canal Street, so when we were asked to try Marco’s new summer menu at his restaurant in neighbouring Cheshire, it was a no-brainer.

 

 

Not just a boring city hotel

 

 

The Hilton Doubletree Chester is an impressive sight. Idyllically set off the beaten track from the city centre and nestled in twelve acres of land in a former 18th century manor, its sweeping driveway leads you towards the beautiful 19th century grade 2 listed building that really does set the scene for dinner.  There were high expectations on this beautiful summer’s eve.

 

 

We arrive at the restaurant and are suitably impressed. The decor, designed deliberately to create an ambience that makes you feel relaxed and at home. Iconic pictures of Marco don the walls in black and white to match the velvety-like surroundings. The bar area, with its plush chairs, dim lighting and full size snooker table all help set the scene.  It has a rather regal air throughout.

 

 

CHESHIRE: Marco Pierre White's Steakhouse, Chester - Reviewed

 

The summer menu

 

 

…Or should I say lack of!  Yes, unfortunately the summer menu was not available due to supplier issues. Nightmare?!

 

 

Normally this would be a problem given that we had been invited down especially to sample the new menu – but not here, not tonight – our server went out of his to way apologise and suggested alternatives from the A’ La Carte menu.

 

 

As a chef myself, I can empathise with kitchen staff when there is an issue with a supplier although I’ve never had to remove an ENTIRE menu from service. I suggest that they should find an alternative supplier!

 

 

We were shown to our table that overlooked the huge water feature as well as the manicured lawns. We took our time to look through the choices that were available to us and enjoyed the view.

 

 

The menu is large. Table snacks are at the top and then the sharing plates, followed by a choice of seven starters and seven mains. There’s also a steak section. The meat is British grass -fed and all aged for a minimum of 35 days on the bone for a distinctive fuller flavour.

 

 

The food 

 

 

 

CHESHIRE: Marco Pierre White's Steakhouse, Chester - Reviewed

Beetroot and goat’s cheese salad.

 

 

To start, my wife chose a salad of beetroot and goats cheese. The beetroot was full of flavour and perfectly cooked. Combined with the creaminess of the goat’ss cheese, the crunch of the walnuts and the slight acidity in the dressing, the dish was the perfect light summer starter.

 

 

It was followed by fillet steak with a béarnaise sauce for main course and an Eton mess for dessert.

 

 

 

CHESHIRE: Marco Pierre White's Steakhouse, Chester - Reviewed

 

 

The fillet was perfectly cooked – medium – as requested. The chips were crisp and plentiful. The béarnaise was decadent, buttery and had just the right amount of tarragon. I could tell my wife was enjoying it, there was total silence throughout and I was never offered a mouthful?!

 

 

I went for the calamari with a tartar sauce and lemon to begin and then the pork mixed grill followed by ‘crumble of the day’ for dessert.

 

 

CHESHIRE: Marco Pierre White's Steakhouse, Chester - Reviewed

 

Unfortunately, the calamari was exactly as I had feared: Frozen circles of chewiness heated up in a deep frier?! It wasn’t bad, it just wasn’t great. The tartar sauce and lemon in muslin made it look and taste a bit better.

 

 

My main course, however, was excellent. The grill consisted of a mini rack of ribs, a sausage, a gammon steak and the piece of black pudding. The pudding had a wonderful flavour and with the salty gammon was an excellent pairing. The ribs and the sausage…. well, who doesn’t like ribs and sausage! The mustard sauce helped to cut through the fatty flavour of the meat and the roasted tomatoes I gave to my wife. It was all washed down with a glass of house Merlot, which was very nice indeed.

 

 

CHESHIRE: Marco Pierre White's Steakhouse, Chester - Reviewed

 

 

The Eton mess was delicious, or so I believe. As my wife so eloquently put it:  “Mmm, you would love this!”, but I didn’t get the chance to because it was gone before I could try any.  I had originally ordered chocolate mousse for myself, but it was sold out and so I opted for an apple and cherry crumble with vanilla ice cream. It was very nice. A bit heavy as a summer dish and after a large meal I was struggling to finish it.

 

 

Verdict

 

Although the summer menu wasn’t available at the time (and let’s be honest, these things happen) what we had was good. Many of the dishes were out of season but still of a standard that you would expect from any of the classics that you will find on a ‘grill menu’.

 

What with the restaurant under Marco Pierre White’s name in an 18th century manor that’s situated in twelve acres of pristine grounds and beautiful views, you would be hard pressed to find this kind of value for money in any steak-house elsewhere.

 

 

MPW Steakhouse Bar and Grill

Doubletree by Hilton Chester

Warrington Road

Chester

CH2 3PD

01244 4089 830