Exploring East Cork: VIVA visits the world famous Ballymaloe cookery school

 

After recently visiting my home county of Cork as a tourist after years of living in London, I fell back in love with what Ireland does so well – the warmth of the people, the “sure it will be grand” attitude and the delicious dining out that we take such pride in.

 

The Wild Atlantic Way of West Cork was explored over three days, and I was left quite literally hungry for more and so I decided to balance out my explorations by heading East-side to the famed culinary haven of Ballymaloe.

 

I’m ashamed to say I’m now one of those people who needs to “check my calendar” before committing to anything (“far from how I was reared”) but I found a couple of days that I could whip home on the brand new 5pm Ryanair flight from Luton on a Friday to experience the world renowned Ballymaloe House and Cookery School near Ballycotton in East Cork.

 

ABOUT BALLYMALOE AND THE ALLENS

 

Ballymaloe holds legendary status in Ireland and beyond – three generations of female chefs have contributed hugely to how a nation thinks about and enjoys food.

 

The Allen empire includes Ballymaloe House, (named one of the world’s 100 best hotels in Condé Nast Traveler Magazine’s Gold List in 2015), the internationally renowned Ballymaloe Cookery School that can charge €12,495 for their prestigious 12-week course, a relish brand that’s in every Irish household, restaurants, TV shows, cookbooks and more. Kardashians – eat your heart out.

 

 

What about the Allen’s philosophy has led to such success? Well, the ‘matriarch’ of modern Irish cuisine, Myrtle Allen, who passed away in 2018 aged 94, summed up her approach as “local, seasonal, organic, flavoursome, sustainable and superbly cooked food” and that legacy very much lives on in Ballymaloe.

 

BALLYMALOE COOKERY SCHOOL

 

My trip began with a visit to the cookery school, entering through the gift shop (passed the shelves of that relish) and greeted by son of Darina Allen, Toby who gave me a tour of the world-class school where students had just began their 12-week course.

 

It was lunch-time (nicely timed!) and on the menu were the dishes the students had been working on that morning. For starters, I helped myself to potato and parsnip soup with a drizzle of pesto, and I was invited to join Toby and Darina’s aunt Florence who explained the full extent of the 100-acre organic farmland the school is situated on that inspires each meal.

 

 

Next was quiche – crumbling and warm, stuffed with wild mushrooms and a zingy side salad. I felt privileged when Darina found a few minutes to join me for this course and share her passion for sustainable cooking and fresh produce. I asked her how she felt about the rise of veganism, something which is inescapable in London, and she expressed some concern that a lack of nutrients can be a big problem if people aren’t getting their fruit and veg fresh and organic, and she encouraged shopping at farmers markets, something I can happily agree with.

 

Finally for my sweet tooth, I was spoilt with freshly baked shortbread with berries. These student lunches are a far cry from beans and toast let me tell you!

 

Time to explore the grounds and I was guided through the herbaceous gardens which include a mini amphitheatre, a huge greenhouse, a wildflower maze and a one-of-a-kind ‘Shell House’ with a roof of mussel and scallop shells that were once dinner at Ballymaloe. Simply magical.

 

 

After that, I sat in on the student’s afternoon demonstration given by Darina’s brother and co-founder of the cookery school, Rory O’Connell. These classes are open to the public for €80 and TV chef Rory took us through a whole range of delight

s.

Although not a confessed foodie, I must say spending time in this school inspired me to take my cooking more seriously and really emphasised the superior taste that cooking with local and fresh ingredients offers.

 

BALLYMALOE HOUSE HOTEL

 

Myrtle Allen first intended this house to be a residence for her family, but shortly after they moved in, she turned the dining room into a restaurant and as popularity grew and people were keen to stay overnight, it became a guesthouse. It retains that cosy, country house feel today with charmingly antiquated decor.

 

Our gorgeous double room with matching wallpaper and curtains looked out on the gardens, and I quickly spotted the outdoor swimming pool. Given it was off-peak season, it was sadly too cold for a dip but we warmed up with a game of tennis in the courts instead.

 

 

Afterwards, we sipped beer in a small living room area in the house that we had all to ourselves. The staff were impeccably attentive with their drinks service and brought us the evening’s menu for pre-order before we were invited to take our places in the candle-lit dining room.

 

The dining experience at Ballymaloe House is pure luxury – five courses of deliciousness. The menu is decided each afternoon depending on what fresh vegetables are in the garden, and although it doesn’t have many things you won’t have heard of as dishes are “based on our traditional foods and our old recipes” – you will taste familiar foods as though for the first time – their freshness lending to the strength of their flavour.

 

 

For starters, I had ‘Purple Sprouting Broccoli with Garden Potatoes, Tapenade and Parmesan’, and staying with a vegetarian theme for mains, I devoured the ‘Corn Pancake with Coolea Cheese and Spinach served with Lentils, Tomato Fondue and Basil Pesto’. We were even offered seconds if we liked, which truly made us feel right at home, and after dinner, cheese was served. And if you have more room (which I certainly did) a dessert trolley was wheeled around from which you could choose generously. The service throughout was pure class and it was certainly a meal to remember.

 

Embracing the relaxed nature of the house, we ordered some nightcaps from the bar just off the living room, and played cards until we got sleepy.

 

 

Luckily, getting a full eight hours sleep in such peaceful surroundings worked up a hunger that made us very excited for the the famed Ballymaloe breakfast.

 

A ‘full Irish’ is an absolute treat, and although going heavy on meats can feel stodgy, the produce at Ballymaloe is top quality – even naming the source of each meat like ‘John McCarthy’s sausages’ and ‘Crowe’s Rashers’.

 

However, if you don’t fancy that, the kitchen also offers a seasonal omelette, crepes with sugar and lemon, Sally Barnes’ kippers and fresh fish from Ballycotton. You are also invited to help yourself from a table of yoghurts, cereals, bircher, muesli, jams, fruit, pastries and fresh baked breads. Breakfast is my favourite meal of the day and I just wish I had even more room to sample everything on offer. I guess I’ll have to come back again!

 

 

There’s more to Ballymaloe House and Myrtle’s daughter Fern kindly gave us a great tour around the grounds. Cute cottages offer more accommodation next to the main house, and there are also a number of venues that can host weddings, concerts and festivals – a large converted barn warehouse and also the ‘Grain Store’ originally built in the 17th Century which looks like a great spot for a ‘knees-up’.

 

Ballymaloe really captures qualities that the Irish are now famed internationally for – warmth, beauty, a slower-pace of life and an appreciation for fresh food. Although it was just a short trip, if you’re in the right place that can feel like enough to clear your head and top you up to return to the big city.

 

Rates at Ballymaloe House are seasonal and start at around €215 per standard double room including breakfast.

 

BALLYMALOE HOTEL
Web: www.ballymaloe.ie | Email: res@ballymaloe.ie | Tel: +353 21 4652531