Review: Happy Birthday, Benito’s Hat!
| 27th October 2015
By Tom Gatehouse
@tragatehouse
tomgatehouse.com
It was a very happy birthday for Benito’s Hat at the beginning of the month. I do mean the restaurant, not one of the many eccentric pieces of head-gear from one Mexican politician, Benito Juarez. A bizarre restaurant name always goes down well, as does exceptional Mexican fare (which is, still, so hard to come by these days). President of Mexico for five terms in the late 1800’s, Senor Juarez was a modernist. Now his hat is responsible for arguably one of the best casual Mexican restaurant groups in London. March 21st is a national holiday in Mexico in order to commemorate Senor Juarez. Imagine what his hat gets up to in his absence.
My companion and I had a fight on our hands to get a table. It was October 1st, and the seventh birthday of Benito’s Hat. Their Covent Garden branch was packed, and their sombrero-clad bouncer had a job keeping the swaying crowd at ease. Luckily, a timely ‘Guac-girl’ was thrown in the mix, offering out free nachos and dip for the patient queue. A few messy nibbles later, and we were sat sitting, enjoying a Marga-litre. Yes, it’s as wonderful as it sounds. A slush puppy-esque creation of real potency. The hat was heaving, birthday joy spilling out from the sides, and it was time for a burrito.
I didn’t realise it was possible to pack so much into a tortilla, and still manage to wrap it perfectly. I struggle at the first sign of sauce and lettuce. But my bursting 12″ burrito, rammed with beef, refried beans, rice, fresh guacamole and salsa (£6.50), looked like a proud water balloon. Food is received via the bar, where you go up, look hungry/choose your beast, and watch the circus unfold/fold. A playful handful of nachos accompanies every plate, and they have a hard time fitting!
Meanwhile, my gluten-free companion delved into her Naked Burrito (swapping out tortilla for a forest of salad – £6.50) with chipotle grilled chicken – occasionally batting me away as I came a-calling for seconds. The Covent Garden branch was the first of the eight currently spread across London, and a hearty round of applause echoed round as the chefs came out to join the party.
Of course they do fully loaded nachos, as well as soft corn or flour tacos, and as mentioned, their margaritas are killer. Well priced, bouncy and loaded with extras; I’ve found my new Mexican retreat in the capital!
Benito’s Hat
Address: 19 New Row, London, WC2N 4LA
Phone: 020 7240 5815
Twitter: @BenitosChat
Website: benitos-hat.com
