The Science Bit: Fierce Flavours Puts The Balls Into Grafene

Grafene, named after the revolutionary wafer-thin matter invented in Manchester that can do mind-bending things mortals struggle to understand, has got a new chef and boy does he have some balls.

So much so that an amuse bouche was described as fish skin with squid ink, scrambled egg and smoked salmon. Yummy was not the first adjective to spring to mind.

As an opening volley it’s a good indication of the new chef’s unabashed approach to providing fierce flavours and tastes, giving Grafene oomph.

In fact, Ben Mounsey, who has an excellent pedigree of working for some fabulous Michelin and ‘rosetted’ eateries, has created some wonderful flavour clashes to put Grafene back on Manchester’s culinary map.

Tuna tartare was nice and slithery with a bite of tangy flavours and fresh crab served in an ‘arhhhh’ satisfying bisque, were perfect starters.

Onto mains and venison was rich, meaty and gamey like a good deer should be and the perfect partner for black peas, while duck, recommended by our charming waiter Denis, was superb, glossy and with a sharp cut-through of fennel.

All this in a beautiful ‘grafene’ grey and yellow setting with each dish a master in insta style – literally as pretty as a picture.

And what’s more you can do three courses for £45 pp, a total bargain for this standard of cooking and one we took advantage of with puds. My cheese plate was one of the best in town with a ‘tipsy willy’ my new favourite cheese.

Grafene also has a new cocktail menu (from £9) and boasts a lovely bar bit and great outside booths for drinking and smoking. There’s a huge drinks menu (so big it has an index) with a hefty emphasis on gins and bottles of vino from £19. All this and a buzzy vibe on the right side of Manc chill.

Viva verdict: Fierce flavours ensure Ben makes his mark on Manchester. A steal at £45 for three courses.